Rear Axle Break - Car Forums and Automotive Chat (2025)

kfordil

11-14-2009, 02:43 PM

I just bought a 2000 SEL with 70K on it. Beautiful van, 1 previous owner, with a clean Carfax. I didn't know the history of issues with the Windstar until I looked it up on-line...oh well.

My concern is the rear axle breakage I've read about on other sites on-line. Seems like a major problem for a lot of Windstar owners. Is it as common as I've read? Any tips?

phil-l

11-16-2009, 09:19 AM

Since no one else has chimed in yet...

I've read about Windstar rear axle failures - but don't believe it to be a widespread problem. I didn't find many references to it on this forum. Personally, I've never seen one fail. From the reading I've done, I get the idea it's at least in part a corrosion problem, so only likely to be seen in heavily-salted areas.

I have a 2000 Windstar LX and was finishing some fluid maintenance projects last night, so I crawled under the rear of the van and took a close look at the axle. The solid axle is built up from several welded assemblies. There are several hollow areas within the axle assembly that have small access holes. I can imagine that if road salt got in there, it could cause problems.

That said, my Windstar has been in salt-using areas its whole life. I bought it used, but CarFax says it started in Indiana. Maryland doesn't get tons of snow - but we do get ice, for which we regularly get salted. I also take lots of family-related trips to Ohio, and have crossed PA in more than one winter.

After 123K miles (many of those miles towing either a popup camper or a utility trailer), I see no signs of unusual corrosion or other problems on my axle. What corrosion I see is very minor, only on the surface.

However, I may consider snaking a piece of tubing inside some of the access holes - and using a syringe to squirt something like 80W-90 gear lube. That will ensure that any salt/water that makes it in there won't cause problems.

smata67

11-16-2009, 01:29 PM

serge_saati

11-16-2009, 02:56 PM

wiswind

11-16-2009, 07:55 PM

The broken axel issue is news to me.
From your reading, what years were involved?
My '96 has spent it's life in salty road winters......it now has over 216K miles on it.
One thing that comes up for us salty winter folks is corrosion on the front springs, which is why FORD put a 10 year, unlimited mileage waranty on the front springs.
I have found my '96 3.8L to be quite reliable.
YES, there are a number of repairs shown in my pictures, but, again....that is on a old vehicle with many miles.....and it is still in very good mechanical shape.

As a new windstar owner....you might want to give the "General information" thread a reading to become familiar with some things to watch out for.......so you know how to avoid big problems and $$$ by catching things early and quickly.
All vehicles have their "quirks"....so with any vehicle, it pays to read up and become familiar with each vehicle's potential issues.

phil-l

11-16-2009, 09:44 PM

wiswind -

While Googling this issue, it seemed that 2001 and 2002 Windstars seem to show up more frequently than other years. I wonder if there were some manufacturing process changes that year...

wafrederick

11-16-2009, 10:35 PM

serge_saati

11-16-2009, 11:03 PM

Plus they did have transmission problems,with big time lube problems which were fixed in 2001 I believe. Ford made a mistake by putting in the transmissions from Tauruses and the Sables in which did not hold up.

I already seen a '02 Taurus with a broken transmission at 100Kmiles. The transmission slips then broke. The problem was in the transmission design, not in the application. There's only 13% more weight on the Windstar and 27% more on the engine brake. Actually, it's designed for a geo metro :lol:

And no, the design was not corrected in 2001. It was in 2006, as I know.

Returning to the rear axle, it looks that it break within 110kmiles in the 99-2003: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Windstar/2001/drivetrain/rear_axle_snapped_in_two.shtml

And this one was not rusty. Maybe it was overloaded, we don't know.
Anyway, if it breaks, nothing alarming. The car is supported by the coil spring and strut. The ride will be just less comfortable.

kfordil

11-17-2009, 12:07 PM

Thanks for the advice regarding the rear axle on Windstars. For those interested in seeing pics and reading the horror stories, check carcomplaints.com. Not enough info there to tell how the vehicles were used or maintained, but enough to raise a red flag for me.

Twelve of the Windstars affected by the "surprise" break were between 100K and 177K miles, five were between 65K - 97K miles. Two were 2000's. Most didn't list what year van they owned. My van is a 2000 SEL with 70K miles.

In reading the posts on this forum, it doesn't appear that rear axles are breaking off in record numbers. YAY! We have 4 kids, so Safety is #1 for us. It'll be inspected, along with the front coil springs. And many other things.

Smata 67, your post points to the dependablity and reliabilty issues, as well as the cost and time of repairs and maintenance. Those are other serious concerns for me. This is our only vehicle and I can't afford a lot of downtime or expense. That said, I roared with laughter reading your comments! :rofl: IF I decide to keep this vehicle (original intention was to keep it for three to four years) I hope I can learn from you and the others on this forum how to avoid the headaches you've encountered. Wishful thinking on my part, perhaps.

Park it outside, Wafrederick??? This van doesn't look like it's ever spent the night outside. The exterior is beautiful, the interior is in fantastic condition, and --knock on wood-- everything appears to be working -- knock on wood again. Tell you what, I'll keep it outside until I bring it in for the Vehicle Speed Control recall. Safety is #1. And I know, I know...I'm gonna eat my words about the "everything's working" comment. You can all have a good laugh now.

Wiswind, your general information post rocks! I've read, re-read and taken notes from it. Lots of solid advice I'll put into place before I start driving the car much. I've subscribed to ALLDATAdiy.com. Next is the Haynes manual. Oh yeah, gotta schedule that Tranny Flush!! :thumbsup:

I live NW of Chicago near the WI border, so snow/ice/heavy salt and just plain long cold nasty winters are the norm, and according to the CarFax it was a locally owned van (one owner before me). Is it too late to rustproof?? It hasn't been before, as far as I can tell.

There is some corrosion on the axle but not at all bad for a 9 year old van with 70K on it. Phil-l and serge saati -- good advice on preventive maintenance! Thanks! And no, I won't be using it to haul heavy loads, except for my son's football player friends. Don't know how it was used for the past 70K miles, but given the condition the interior/exterior are in it does not appear to have been abused.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this van works out. I'll be lurking, taking your advice, and posting here. Thx!

tomj76

11-17-2009, 01:49 PM

Just offer another point of view, I have a '96 with 258k miles, mostly highway. I've had a few problems, and some of them were design/quality related, some where wear and tear. The most troubling problems I've experienced are :(
-strut bearings that "break" (i.e. need replaced) when a deep pothole is hit.
-struts that rubbed on the strut tower. I had to purchase and install spacers to resolve
- EGR ports require regular cleaning (~50k miles)
-transmission failure (@ 190k) This has been the biggest headache of all. Leading up to the failure there was occasional chattering of the torque converter clutch, which I thought was a misfire. Since the transmission was overhauled (by 3rd party) I've still had this problem and have not been able to resolve it.

Overall I've thought this vehicle was a good value, and I am considering rebuilding the engine (due to high mileage) to extend it's life, if I can first get the transmission issue resolved. During the first few years and after the first experience with the EGR ports (a $400 "repair"!) I had regretted buying this vehicle, but more recently I feel better about it, especially considering the overall mileage I've been able to get out of it.

serge_saati

11-17-2009, 05:03 PM

phil-l

11-17-2009, 05:14 PM

I'll second the grease recommendation. However, note that none of these items have traditional grease fittings on the Windstar. Get a needle for your grease gun and learn how to use it carefully, to avoid ripping boots.

Here's a sample grease gun needle; they're commonly available:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47469

smata67

11-18-2009, 12:47 PM

gridman

12-05-2009, 03:40 PM

I own a 2001 Windstar SE, which I bought new. The vehicle has never been overloaded or abused. I live in the NW suburbs near Chicago, so the weather and road conditions are the same as your vehicle has been thru.

In June, 09 I was driving home with my family, as I was going over a fairly smooth railroad crossing I felt the van start handling strange. I pulled over and found the right rear wheel out of align. I carefully drove it home and went underneath to check it.

To my surprise I found the axle beam cracked 3/4 of the way thru.

After reading the dozens of complaints from other Windstar owners (37 from just the 2001 model year) I see this problem is not unique.

One thing I have done is contact other Windstar owners I know warning them about this problem.

The axle failure is caused by the axle tube rotting from the inside. The first visible indication of this failure is when the axle tube cracks. The crack starts at the bottom of the axle tube (the area of highest load/stress) and works its way up. If you’re lucky, (like I was) it only cracks part way, enough to where the driver notices a problem with the vehicle handling and gets it checked. If you’re unlucky, (as many people have been) the axle can break in two, making the vehicle almost impossible to control. If it were to break in a vehicle at highway speeds, loaded up with family (or soccer team or scouts, etc), the results could be catastrophic.

Additionally, from what I have found on the internet, Ford was notified about this potential problem as far back as 1999 (2 years before my Windstar was even built!!!). From what I can determine, Ford used the same (flawed) axle tube in all Windstars built. In 2004 Ford introduced the Windstar’s replacement, the Freestar.
The Freestar’s axle is a new design, raising the middle of the tube higher than the ends (which would make it harder for water/road salt to get in and easier to drain out).

serge_saati

12-05-2009, 04:34 PM

When it happens, did the tracking bar was in good shape? Tracking bar helps axle beam to not twist too much.

Maybe too much fuel in the tank doesn't help the beam too live longtime. I never fill more than 3/8. Also, I consume less fuel (less weight).

12Ounce

12-05-2009, 04:42 PM

I see some folks use the center of the rear axle as a jacking point to lift the vehicle. That could also lead to early failure. Of course, heavy debris in the roadway can take its toll.

There are many ways to make the rear axle fail, but normally it should last "forever".

serge_saati

12-05-2009, 06:29 PM

I don't think that gridman have used the rear axle to support his vehicle. Of course its a stupid idea.

There are many ways to make the rear axle fail, but normally it should last "forever".

I don't think you can said that unless you have designed the rear suspension of your car. It's not because yours never fail that it can't fail, even if it's used correctly.

12Ounce

12-06-2009, 08:39 AM

I didn't mean to suggest someone had been careless. I agree, with you, that lifting the vehicle by the center of the axle is "stupid", but I have observed it being done more than once ... So some folks obviously haven't realized the impact of such action. I was hoping to warn/remind us all not to lift by the axle.

In normal driving the middle of the rear axle is not loaded very much. If corrosion and mechanical damage does not occur ... it should last "forever".

A good item for all of us to add to our check list ... perhaps every time the tires are rotated. I know I have run over lots of debris that has bumped along underneath, my axle could well be damaged.

serge_saati

12-06-2009, 11:15 AM

An under inflated rear tire can also cause the rear axle to fail. Excessive speed in tight corner too.

Like you said, when rear suspension is balanced from left to right, there's no weight on the axle. The weight are supported by the suspensions. But when one of the rear tire hits a bump on the road, the axle lift the other side of the vehicle a little bit.

In a road with a lot of oddity, there's a lot of stress for the axle. In Atlanta you may have very nice roads. It's not necessary the case in other places.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ahuvxRitU74/SZpUiwoKR5I/AAAAAAAAMcQ/HgqtRE1fCHs/s400/potholes_chicago.jpg

12Ounce

12-06-2009, 11:42 AM

Incoming! Incoming!

Man, driving thru that ain't "normal"! Baghdad? (LOL)

serge_saati

12-06-2009, 01:41 PM

Incoming! Incoming!

Man, driving thru that ain't "normal"! Baghdad? (LOL)

No, it's North America. And you didn't see all!
Sometime I need to switch lane to avoid braking my shocks, cause there's a very big pothole in main street. When it has traffic, I didn't have the choice.

12Ounce

12-06-2009, 03:47 PM

gridman

12-12-2009, 10:15 PM

Hi Again, (warning, this is going to be a long one!)

I will try to answer your comments in the order received.

serge_saati wrote;
quote,
“When it happens, did the tracking bar was in good shape? Tracking bar helps axle beam to not twist too much.

Maybe too much fuel in the tank doesn't help the beam too live longtime. I never fill more than 3/8. Also, I consume less fuel (less weight).”

Good Question.
All arms/bars were in good condition, and bushings were not worn or loose.
While the axle was out and laying on the driveway, I took the opportunity to replace the rear shocks and clean and check the rear brakes, not because there was a problem with them, but because at 72,000 miles (for the shocks) it was a convenient time to do it before they needed it.

I seldom have the 25 gallon tank more than ¾ full, and this Ford rates as a 7 passenger minivan that I seldom carry more than my family of 4 in (2 of which are preteens). Far less weight than Ford rates this vehicle for!

12Ounce wrote;
quote,
“I see some folks use the center of the rear axle as a jacking point to lift the vehicle. That could also lead to early failure. Of course, heavy debris in the roadway can take its toll.”

No, I do not raise the vehicle by the axle tube. From what I have read on other websites, this has been the excuse some dealers have given to their customers to explain the break. My favorite was a dealer showing the customer the dimple on the bottom of the broken axle as proof of where the jack was used to raise the vehicle. This excuse satisfied the customer until he brought the vehicle to his mechanic. His mechanics put it up on the lift, and when they checked the brand new, dealer installed axle, guess what they found? That same dimple!
It seems that dimple is from the forming process in making the axle tube.

To raise the vehicle from the center of the rear axle would put the stress on the top of the axle tube.
These axles are cracking, starting at the bottom, the area most stressed while driving.

12Ounce wrote;
quote,
“In normal driving the middle of the rear axle is not loaded very much. If corrosion and mechanical damage does not occur ... it should last "forever".

A good item for all of us to add to our check list ... perhaps every time the tires are rotated. I know I have run over lots of debris that has bumped along underneath, my axle could well be damaged.”

And,

serge_saati wrote;
quote,
“Like you said, when rear suspension is balanced from left to right, there's no weight on the axle. The weight are supported by the suspensions. But when one of the rear tire hits a bump on the road, the axle lift the other side of the vehicle a little bit.”

The axle IS part of the rear suspension!
If the rear springs (that carry the weight of the back of the vehicle) were directly over the center of the tire/wheel/hub, then yes the axle would not carry much load. But as that is almost impossible to engineer into a passenger vehicle, the load is carried inboard of the tire/wheel/hub, on the axle tube. The axle then transfers the load to the outboard hub/wheel/ tire. This off-center loading tries to twist the top of the wheel in (negative camber) on both sides of the vehicle, which is resisted by the axle tube between them. The axle is resisting being twisted down in the center putting most of the stress on the bottom of the axle tube. The area where the cracks are starting!

As I said in my original comment,

The problem appears to be part design;
A straight tube with large openings (bottom spring seats) on each end that lets water/road salt get in and not easily drain out.
And part material or process;
Poor quality steel or missing an internal coating to resist corrosion.

serge_saati

12-12-2009, 10:49 PM

My favorite was a dealer showing the customer the dimple on the bottom of the broken axle as proof of where the jack was used to raise the vehicle. This excuse satisfied the customer until he brought the vehicle to his mechanic. His mechanics put it up on the lift, and when they checked the brand new, dealer installed axle, guess what they found? That same dimple!
It seems that dimple is from the forming process in making the axle tube.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Dealers know all the tricks to crook.

12Ounce

12-14-2009, 11:34 AM

OK, I'm now getting a case of paranoia! My '99 has 270 kmiles. Original rear shocks. We are planning our second round-the-country vacation trip next summer ... ten thousand plus miles ... I do not need anything coming apart, including a rear axle beam. So, I'm thinking ... best to go to dealer and get one of these things ... paint it up good with rust inhibiter, install it just to be "on safe side". That was before I saw the price ... $375 before taxes!

Does anyone have an image showing the fracture? Is it wise to weld on some extra reinforcements?

Just for info: The local dealership has only sold one (... at that price, I can understand why ...) back in 2007. The part # is 4B435. (Models 1998 - 2003). No related TSB's. One part number change ... may have been a new supplier instead of an upgrade.

serge_saati

12-14-2009, 12:44 PM

Like I said, on highway the axle beam is almost not under stress, whenever how much miles you do.

It's under stress only on streets filled of potholes (like mines), on off-road trail, or when you turn a tight turn very fast.

The long as you turn 90° curve below 10 mph you should be ok. Some peoples do it at 20 mph and more.

Check also tire pressure and rear shock absorber. Weak shock can cause axe damage.

For the rust inhibitor, you can do it yourself. Just spray 5W30 oil under the car with a sprayer.

gridman

12-14-2009, 03:44 PM

And like I said, the axle tube is always under stress whenever there is weight on the rear tires, it’s basic engineering (or middle school science). To lessen the stress, you could try to drive straight on the world’s longest billiards table (as Serge’s suggestion seems to imply), but in the “real” world I doubt you will find any roads that smooth or straight.

As for slowing to 10mph for 90° curves, this would present a new safety issue, as a line of 18 wheelers drives thru your tailgate on the highway!

As for spraying 5W30 oil under the car with a sprayer, this will keep the bottom of your vehicle “nice and shinny” and may keep the exposed surfaces free of corrosion for the short term, (for the first 2 or 3 substantial rain/snow storms) but will soon wash/wear off. But as I said, the axle rots from the inside out, so any spraying on the outside of the axle will not address the problem growing on the inside of the axle.

The best way to attack the problem directly, would be to raise the rear of the vehicle, remove one (or both) rear wheels to get easy access to the “drain holes” (small rectangular holes at the bottom of the tube, inboard of the springs) and spray/fill the tube (both side of the U shape) with a rust converter/corrosion inhibiter. Please Note, It would be a good idea to first check the inside of the axle with a bore scope (if available) to see the extent of corrosion already present. If there is already a lot of rust build-up/scale it may be too late for a coating to be much help!

To address 12Ounce’s concerns;
As I said, the problem appears to be part design (I believe all Windstars share the same axle design), and part materials/process. There is a very good chance that not all Windstars shared in the same material/process problems. This is something only Ford would know (but is not revealing). While all Windstars were built (assembled) in Oakville, Ontario (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oakville,_Ontario), Canada (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canada), their parts were, most likely, sourced from all over the world. These axles may have been manufactured in a plant in the US or Canada or Mexico or China or anywhere else in the world. There is also a chance they were supplied from more than one plant or company and from more than one country and different manufacturiers in different years. The only thing they had in common was they were all made to Ford’s design specs. and they were the lowest cost manufactures of the part. Add to this that these manufactures would be using steel sourced from anywhere in the world, as long as it was the lowest price, and they probabily also received the steel from more than one supplier. This means your axle could have been made in made in Texas from “virgin” steel from Pittsburgh or made in Mexico from recycled scrap metal from China, only Ford might (should) have a record of this. Additionally, was the “raw steel” axle coated with corrision resistant paint, inside & out, by spraying or dipping? Or was it only sprayed on the outside after being built?
If it was to be sprayed on the inside, was the spray equipment beoken that shift/day/week? And when did anybody notice.
Also being from Atlanta, I assume your vehicles are not exposed to the same road salt we are up here and there is no large body of salt water, so I’m sure that helps. I also wonder if that red clay dust that coats everything down there might be helping your vehicle.
As for the dealer price of $375 before taxes for a new axle, your lucky, up here it’s above $500 and they want another $500 to install it!
I have read of someone getting it welded (successfully), but you need to bring it to a good welder who knows what he is doing, and you need to bring it to him before it cracks thru (or when the crack first appears but befor the axle starts to bend), also after it is welded it is a very good idea to get the vehicles complete alignment checked, front & rear.

12Ounce

12-14-2009, 04:02 PM

Thanks all for the info.

Duh, I'm just now noticing gridman's "avatar" .. that's the cracked axle-beam, right? ... anyway to increase the size of that photo?.. I printed it and got a postage-stamp.

gridman

12-14-2009, 08:06 PM

Yes that is a picture of my broken axle.

Except for the "avatar" photo, I have not yet figured out how to post my photos onto this website (apparently they are too large to be an attachment).

If you want to see some of my photos of my broken axle, (along with other peoples photos of their broken Windstar axles, go to http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Windstar/2001/drivetrain/rear_axle_snapped_in_two.shtml

serge_saati

12-14-2009, 08:34 PM

I have not yet figured out how to post my photos onto this website (apparently they are too large to be an attachment).

No they're not too big. But there was a problem on this website with attachment since august 2009. So you can't upload picture directly from you PC.

But you can upload pics on your web server or on ImageShack.us site.

Then insert image url on the post.

serge_saati

12-14-2009, 09:04 PM

Your axle is heavily damaged! I realize that the beam is hollow, not plain. It's why it's so weak. Probably Ford wanted to save in material cost. It's made in steel instead of fiber glass polymer. Motorcraft is cheapest that AC Delco.

I maintain my position when I say that weight is not applied on the beam when van sit on a flat surface. Because the spring are supported on the extremity of the axle beam, even more outside.

The axle beam is like a torsion bar. It plays a similar role as a stabilizer bar. Stabilizer bar doesn't support weight on flat surface without cornering.

12Ounce

12-15-2009, 09:35 AM

This link may work better:
.
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Windstar/2001/suspension/rear_axle_broke_in_half.shtml
.

12Ounce

12-15-2009, 03:43 PM

OK ... 12Ounce (call me "the magnificent car-knack") is ready to tell all! LOL!

BTW, thanks gridman for showing us that great web-site. That web-site is for posting problems/complaints. This web-site is for posting advice/solutions!

I've read all the complaints ... looked at all the images ... posted on the broken rear axle for all years 1998-2003. Note:
(A)... all failures come after some years/miles. No failures are "straight out of the box". So something is happening long after manufacture! This is not a simple "part failure."
(B)... some failures are noticed only after the axle breaks in two. But some folks notice the failure very early on (a small crack), some a bit later (a larger/longer crack). So the failure is the result of a very slow process ... taking a long time!
(C)... most failures occur in the north (snow/road salt) country and it looks like corrosion is envolved. Looking at the images, I'd say the corrosion is "outside-in" ... or, something corrosive is dripping down onto the rear axle!

..... my final, cover-all, left-field guess: AC condensate is dripping on the rear axle causing rust and corrosion. This is worsened when there is road salt in use and the ac is "on" ... i.e., anytime the windschield defrost is "on". The condensate will be different amounts from car to car because of differences in tubing insulations.

... Of course, it may be something else other than condensate ... but I am pretty convinced something is dripping on rear axles ... in nearly the same exact location on the rear axle.

(ain't I purdy!)

12Ounce

12-15-2009, 04:19 PM

POST SCRIPT(Or.... "old 12Ounce really likes to go out on a limb!"):

The rear axle failures have almost nothing to do with mechanical loading ... the rear axle is safely "overdesigned" for all driving circumstances! We will never see a rear axle failure that does not involve corrosion/rust!

This does not mean that some mechanical event will not take the last bit of life out of a very compromised axle ... but the corrosion, left unchecked, will do the job by itself!

A simple periodic cleaning and overcoating program is probably all we need. Perhaps some flashing to redirect the dripping! ??

serge_saati

12-15-2009, 05:13 PM

The A/C condensation is under the expension valve in engine compartment, not at rear.

If I refer on the same website, I found some axle damages that are not caused by the corrosion. For example:

http://www.carcomplaints.com/images/complaints/6612daf6-2121-102d-b79d-ed601a6197d0r.jpg

More info: http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Windstar/2001/drivetrain/rear_axle_snapped_in_two.shtml

So yes, it can due to mechanical failure. As I said, filing the gas tank at full give a lot of load on the axle. It's over 185lbs of weight.

Ford don't know how to design anything. I already found a problem in a 25000 miles 2009 Ford.

Cantolina

03-11-2010, 12:06 AM

OK ... 12Ounce (call me "the magnificent car-knack") is ready to tell all! LOL!

BTW, thanks gridman for showing us that great web-site. That web-site is for posting problems/complaints. This web-site is for posting advice/solutions!<snip>

Good point...this site has been a source of great help and saved me lots of money in my short time here...

That being said, this thread is pretty useless...even WITH pictures :banghead::banghead:

I just finished the isolator bolt TSB AND replacement of the coolant crossover tube, and the VERY NEXT DAY, the rear axle broke... :eek7::loser:

Wife was driving home from school at 30 MPH, and suddenly lost control...no accident, no injuries, but shook them up pretty good!

Yes, I live in the North, and no I not only don't load it with anything but soccer-playing kids, I ALSO have never jacked the vehicle up at the beam....

I'll continue to search threads, but does anyone have any insight/comments/suggestions for someone considering replacing this themselves?

I'm a pretty good wrench, but I have concerns about what I might find once I take it apart that would necessitate a tow to a garage mid-project....

Let's get to the tips, tricks and solutions, please, and thank you? :wink:

12Ounce

03-11-2010, 08:08 PM

I personally would be inclined to go with a new part. I know its a lot of cost ... but also a lot of security, especially if you take the care to add several coats of rust inhibitor. My second choice would be to weld/repair/reinforce the broken one ... if the remaining axle metal seems good enough to be reused.

I don't think the labor required to do the task would be that difficult .... can't see paying someone else to do it.

gridman

03-18-2010, 11:57 AM

Cantolina, if you replaced the intake isolator bolt, then you should have no problem replacing the axle.
You didn’t list the year or mileage of your van, but as you mention you live in the north (and I assume a“salted” state) the only problem you might encounter is possible rusted fasteners. (always a problem) The fasteners on my van were in pretty good shape and I was able to swap out the axle, replace the rear shocks and clean & inspect the rear brakes in less than 3 hours, on my driveway. All I needed was a floor jack, 2 sturdy jack stands, (make sure the van is safely supported) and basic (metric) hand tools.

As 12Ounce says, by a new axle from a dealer. I know it will cost you around $500, but a used one might already be rotting from the inside and you would have no way of knowing.

The axle failure does not seem to show up before 70k miles so a new one should last at least that long, but if you want to buy it more time, it wouldn’t hurt to follow 12Once’s advice and apply a couple of coats of rust inhibitor/primer to the inside of the axle tube (both sides of the bottom). This way there is less chance of water/dirt/road salt that gets in can rot it out as fast. (no, it is not caused by A/C condensation/water dripping from above)

While the rear is out, this is a good time to, depending on age/mileage, replace the rear shocks, springs, clean/inspect/repair the rear brakes, inspect/replace mounting bushings, and inspect/replace the rear bearings (hubs).

Then it’s also a good idea to get the alignment checked. (all 4 wheels)

I wouldn’t suggest going the welding route. If the axle tube rotted through in one place, there is a good chance the tubes strength is compromised in other places.

capyclayt

10-25-2010, 02:43 PM

:runaround:Better get it to a ford dealer quick. Just dropped mine off and picked up a free rental. maybe they will buy me out.

I just bought a 2000 SEL with 70K on it. Beautiful van, 1 previous owner, with a clean Carfax. I didn't know the history of issues with the Windstar until I looked it up on-line...oh well.

My concern is the rear axle breakage I've read about on other sites on-line. Seems like a major problem for a lot of Windstar owners. Is it as common as I've read? Any tips?

gridman

10-25-2010, 05:56 PM

Those of you who are following this thread probably already know this, but after several years and over 230 complaints, the NHTSA, on May 15th, 2010, finally opened up an official investigation into the Ford Windstar rear axle failure problem. As I understand it, after the NHTSA opens an investigation, the manufacture has 4 months to supply documents about the assembly being investigated and make their case as to why there is no defect or to issue a voluntary recall.

In late August 2010, Ford announced it is recalling around 700,000 -1998 through 2003 model year Ford Windstars, registered in 21 winter-road salt states and Canada, for possible axle failure due to corrosion caused by trapped moisture and road salt.

Ford was to start sending out the recall letters on September 27th, 2010 urging owners to bring their vans in to their local Ford Dealers for inspection.

If upon inspection the axles were found to be OK, owners would be told they could take their vans home, but were instructed to watch for a follow-up letter to schedule bringing their vans back in to have reinforcement brackets installed on their axles, when the brackets become available to the dealers.

If the inspection does find signs that the axle is failing, the dealer will hold the van until a new replacement axle was available and will supply the van owner with a free loaner vehicle until the van is repaired, or Ford may also offer to “buy out” the van from the owner.

If the van was already repaired before the recall, owners are still urged to bring their vans in for inspection and reinforcement and may bring in the receipts from the repair or replacement of the failed axle and should receive a full reimbursement from Ford for those repairs.

I turned my receipts into my local dealer on October 15th and am awaiting my reimbursement; I was told it takes about 2 weeks. I received my recall letter the following week on October 22nd.

I told one of my wife’s friends 2 weeks ago that, even though she did not yet get the recall letter, she should take it in to her dealer to get it checked. Although she was not having any problems or hearing any strange noises, on my recommendation, she brought her van in early last week and is currently driving a new free Ford loaner car as the dealer found a hole and some cracks in the axle, it was only a matter of time or one good pothole before her axle would have broke. She was told it may take 3 to 6 months to get parts because of the backlog.

Unfortunately the recall notice did not come in time for a 28 year old father of 2 from Massachusetts as it looks like Ford may have had its first “recorded” fatality in a Windstar Crash due to rear axle failure on Friday, October 15th, 2010, in Whitman Massachusetts. The link to the story is below.:frown:

http://www.necn.com/10/15/10/Whitman-Mass-police-investigate-deadly-c/landing_newengland.html?blockID=332102&feedID=4206 (http://www.necn.com/10/15/10/Whitman-Mass-police-investigate-deadly-c/landing_newengland.html?blockID=332102&feedID=4206)

serge_saati

10-25-2010, 11:06 PM

12Ounce

10-26-2010, 09:37 AM

I'm inclined to agree with the police investigation. If the axle is broken, you don't need any other explanation.

Has anyone seen a new axle that Ford is supplying? ... does it have a different look?

serge_saati

10-26-2010, 10:23 AM

warrenj42

10-26-2010, 05:31 PM

wiswind

10-26-2010, 10:15 PM

wiswind

10-26-2010, 10:15 PM

serge_saati

10-26-2010, 11:37 PM

Dumb question, but has anyone tried fabricating a stronger replacement that would stand up to the stress this van places on it? I am thinking some plate steel and a piece of pipe plus mounting plates for the wheels should do it. IMHO would take no more than a week to measure an old axle, cut pieces to fit, weld it all up, and mount the sucker. oh yeah and plates to hold the springs, always something... sheesh! LOL Just a thought peeps... we need to do something effective here and if Henry isnt up to the task.....

The rear axle is a torsion bar. It's made to twist to act like a semi-independent rear suspension. So that you have a good handling in corner while good damping on pothole.

If you weld it to solid steel, or replace it to steel, it will not twist. Fiberglass is a good substitute, but more expensive. Ford was trying to save on this VAN.

warrenj42

10-27-2010, 12:01 PM

The rear axle is a torsion bar. It's made to twist to act like a semi-independent rear suspension. So that you have a good handling in corner while good damping on pothole.

If you weld it to solid steel, or replace it to steel, it will not twist. Fiberglass is a good substitute, but more expensive. Ford was trying to save on this VAN.

I figured as much. I wasn't thinking well pipe or anything so robust, but merely something stronger than that weak excuse for a piece of tin. The Caravans used a piece of solid pipe and leaf springs, they never failed like that. I am merely suggesting options. We cant be completely euchred on this issue.

:comprage1:yikes:

12Ounce

10-27-2010, 01:11 PM

warrenj42

10-27-2010, 01:24 PM

car3345

10-27-2010, 09:23 PM

serge_saati

10-27-2010, 09:36 PM

Has anyone seen a new axle that Ford is supplying? ... does it have a different look?

The new axle will be available between January through March 2011. In the mean time, they will inspect your vehicle.

If your van inspection succeed, they will just add antirust treatment on it.
Then they will add part to enforce your axle. These parts will be available before january.

If the inspection fails (too rusty), they will give you a free rental car until they receive the new axle. Probably a Flex Limited 2011 or something. Or, they will offer to buy your van if its value is less than the cost to repair it (~700$ or less).

I just received the infos from Ford.

pack69

10-28-2010, 05:16 PM

tebo77

10-29-2010, 08:09 PM

XterraRacer

10-29-2010, 09:17 PM

serge_saati

10-29-2010, 10:04 PM

A windstar that runs isn't a windstar. Hahahaha

Hahaha!!!

Off_Timing

10-31-2010, 12:09 AM

Flex? I got a puddle-jumper Nissan Sentra. I asked where am I supposed to put my groceries?? lol.
They will probably inspect yours and if the repair passes safety inspection, you'll be good.
I was hoping they would purchase mine but now I see why they didn't if the limit is $700 or less in value. I just thought it would be cheaper valued at 2 grand even then paying $40 a day for a rental for 3-5 months.
I miss my Windstar!

What's everyone's experience on this? Can they give you any vehicle they feel like? The Windstar is a large vehicle. For those that got loaner vehicles, what did you get? I certainly don't want a subcompact in lieu of a minivan.

badded3333

10-31-2010, 01:27 AM

webbug

11-01-2010, 09:38 PM

Here's a copy similar to the notice I received.
http://www.fordwindstarrecall.info/ford_recall_notice_10s13.pdf

And in case anyone is interested….here's the rear axle and repair instructions.
link (http://nhthqnwws112.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/docservlet/Artemis/Public/Recalls/2010/V/RCRIT-10V385-5819.pdf)

(http://nhthqnwws112.odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/acms/docservlet/Artemis/Public/Recalls/2010/V/RCRIT-10V385-5819.pdf)

tebo77

11-02-2010, 01:38 PM

I was not told I had to pay the taxes on the rental.

Yesterday Ford made an offer to buy my Windstar for $2710. Looking online, this is the exact price in the Kelley Blue Book for an excellent condition 2000 Windstar. So, if they choose to make an offer, it looks like they will give book value. I think I am breaking even with what I paid for the van and what I put into it, possibly a $200 profit for my labor lol. I am going to take the offer and buy another minivan, anything without a blue oval on the front!
This is such a helpful site and I have almost enjoyed being a Windstar owner:) This forum is longer than most others though. It is comforting to know I didn't get a "bad" one, they're all like that lol!
Hats off to Ford. They are going beyond the call of duty to make this right, have been very courteous, and they are not using our tax dollars to purchase the vehicles back!